Weaves And Prints of India

Weaves & Prints of India (State-wise)

State / UT	Famous Weaves / Prints	Detail
Andhra Pradesh	Pochampally Ikat, Venkatagiri, Uppada, Narayanpet	Pochampally = tie-dye ikat silk; Venkatagiri = lightweight cotton/silk with zari; Uppada = jamdani-style floral motifs; Narayanpet = striped borders and checks.
Arunachal Pradesh	Adi, Apatani, Wancho Weaves	Woven on backstrap looms, bright stripes, geometric tribal patterns.
Assam	Muga Silk, Eri Silk, Mekhela Chador, Sualkuchi Weaves	Golden Muga silk; Eri as ahimsa silk; Mekhela chador as traditional attire; Sualkuchi called “Manchester of East.”
Bihar	Tussar Silk, Madhubani Prints	Tussar = textured golden silk, tribal motifs; Madhubani = folk painting often transferred to fabric.
Chhattisgarh	Kosa Silk, Tussar, Bastar Dhokra-inspired Weaves	Kosa = local variety of tussar; tribal motifs dominate.
Delhi	Bagru, Ajrakh (migrant crafts)	Not indigenous, but migrant weavers bring block-prints from Rajasthan/Gujarat.
Goa	Kunbi Weave	Red-check patterned sari, traditional of Kunbi tribe.
Gujarat	Patola (double ikat), Mashru, Ajrakh, Tangaliya, Bhujodi	Patola = rare double ikat; Mashru = silk-cotton; Ajrakh = resist-dyed block prints; Tangaliya = bead effect extra-weft; Bhujodi = earthy shawls.
Haryana	Panja Dhurrie, Khes Weaves	Panja dhurrie = geometric flat-woven rugs; Khes = thick cotton blankets.
Himachal Pradesh	Kullu Shawl, Chamba Rumal	Woollen shawls with bold borders; Chamba rumal = embroidered narrative cloths.
Jharkhand	Tussar Silk, Tribal Weaves	Golden, textured silk often eco-dyed with tribal motifs.
Jammu & Kashmir	Pashmina, Kani Shawl, Namda Rugs	Pashmina = fine goat wool; Kani = twill tapestry shawl; Namda = felted wool rugs with embroidery.
Karnataka	Ilkal, Molakalmuru, Kasuti Embroidery	Ilkal = cotton-silk with red pallus; Molakalmuru = richly patterned silks; Kasuti = counted-thread embroidery on saris.
Kerala	Kasavu, Balaramapuram Handloom	White cotton sari with golden zari, worn during Onam.
Madhya Pradesh	Chanderi, Maheshwari	Chanderi = sheer silk-cotton with motifs; Maheshwari = reversible borders and stripes.
Maharashtra	Paithani, Himroo, Narayan Peth, Mashru	Paithani = peacock motifs in zari; Himroo = Persian-inspired jacquards; Narayan Peth = temple borders.
Manipur	Moirangphee, Leirum, Phanek	Traditional handloom textiles with bright stripes and motifs.
Meghalaya	Eri Silk, Dakmanda (Garo tribe weave)	Dakmanda = woven skirts with geometric borders.
Mizoram	Puan Weave	Striped cotton cloth in vibrant colors, worn as wrap.
Nagaland	Naga Shawls (Ao, Angami, Chakhesang, etc.)	Each tribe has distinctive shawl with symbolic stripes/figures.
Odisha	Sambalpuri Ikat, Bomkai, Berhampuri Pata	Ikat with motifs like shankha, chakra; Bomkai = temple borders; Berhampuri = temple sari weave.
Punjab	Phulkari Embroidery, Bagh	Floral embroidery on odhnis, Bagh = dense coverage version.
Rajasthan	Kota Doria, Sanganeri Print, Bagru Print, Leheriya	Kota = khat checks; Sanganeri/Bagru = block printing; Leheriya = tie-dye in wave patterns.
Sikkim	Lepcha Weave	Backstrap loom weave, striped and geometric designs.
Tamil Nadu	Kanchipuram, Madurai Sungudi, Chettinad Cotton	Kanchipuram = temple-bordered silks; Sungudi = tie-dye with dotted patterns; Chettinad = bold checks/stripes.
Telangana	Gadwal, Pochampally Ikat, Puttapaka Telia Rumal	Gadwal = cotton body with silk border; Pochampally = ikat diamonds; Puttapaka = red-black-white ikats.
Tripura	Risa, Riha, Pachhra	Traditional tribal weaves in bright red and black.
Uttar Pradesh	Banarasi Brocade, Chikankari Embroidery, Jamdani	Banarasi = zari-rich silk; Chikan = delicate white embroidery; Jamdani weaving traditions exist.
Uttarakhand	Pashmina Variants, Kumaoni Wool Weaves	Woolen shawls and blankets with simple geometric borders.
West Bengal	Baluchari, Tant, Jamdani, Kantha Embroidery, Shantipuri	Baluchari = narrative myth saris; Tant = crisp cottons; Jamdani = fine muslin motifs; Kantha = quilted running stitch.
Andaman & Nicobar	Tribal Cane & Cotton Weaves	Small-scale weaving with tribal motifs and cane-fiber craft.
Chandigarh	Migrant Weaves (Phulkari from Punjab, Himachali Shawls)	Crafts practiced by migrant weavers.
Ladakh (UT)	Pashmina, Yak Wool Weaves	Thick woolens for cold climate, patterned in natural shades.

Weave, Warp, and Weft — Basics of Handloom & Textiles

1. Weave

• Definition: The pattern or structure created when warp and weft threads are interlaced at right angles.

• Explanation: Think of it as the “fabric design” formed by how threads cross each other.

• Types:

  • Plain Weave – simplest criss-cross (like a checkerboard).

  • Twill Weave – diagonal lines (as in denim).

  • Satin Weave – smooth, lustrous surface with floating threads.

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2. Warp

• Definition: The set of lengthwise threads that are fixed on the loom before weaving begins.

• Explanation: Warp threads are like the foundation of the fabric – stretched tight and kept stationary.

• Key Point: They run parallel to the length of the fabric (selvage to selvage).

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3. Weft

• Definition: The crosswise threads that are inserted over and under the warp threads during weaving.

• Explanation: Weft threads move back and forth, interlacing with the warp to create the cloth.

• Key Point: They run horizontally, across the width of the fabric.

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💡 Quick Visual Analogy:

• Warp = vertical strings of a harp 🎵

• Weft = fingers moving sideways across them to make music 🎶

• Weave = the melody (the final cloth).